The third day was a charm again.
The day was bright and sunny and the wind was calm. A perfect day to take a lighthouse cruise.
We left her around ten o'clock and we spent time shopping and exploring. We visited Rockport and Manchester.
They are beautiful New England towns with many beautiful homes with well kept yards, lovely beaches, quaint shops and narrow streets.We found Niles beach in East Gloucester and we spent about a half hour there looking for sea glass. We parked along the road in a spot that was supposed to be for residents with permits so we dared not stay long.
Next we headed to Gloucester, we wanted to get a parking spot and get our cruise tickets. I learned that Gloucester has no knowledge of the lighthouse passport program and so I did not get any stamps today.
We ate our lunch at a little park at the Public Landing dock. Before we knew it the time had come to board the King Eider.
She had a full load and the captain Steve was also the narrator. He did an excellent job of maneuvering the boat and informing us of the history of the area as well as the history of the 6 lighthouses that we saw.
We travelled around Cape Ann from Gloucester Harbor past Rockport, north around Halibut Point State Park, and finally up Annisquam River and back into Gloucester Harbor. We had real good views of Ten Pound Island Lighthouse, Eastern Point Lighthouse, Thacher Island Twin Lighthouses,Straitsmouth Island Lighthouse and finally the Annisquam Harbour lighthouse.
The day was great, sunny, warm and with calm seas, the only thing missing was lighthouse stamps for my passport.:-(
After we docked Ken and I returned to the truck and went on the hunt for a good seafood place to have supper. We were sooooooooo successful! We ate at Mile one Marker Restaurant. The mile one refers to the fact that it is on Mile one of the intracoastal Waterway which stretched 4500 Kl from the Atlantic to the Gulf coast. The food was fabulous. Ken had scallops and I had clams. We were seated outside on a beautiful patio and we were right on the marina so we could see so many of the beautiful people enjoying sunset and cocktails on the decks of their yachts.
This will be our last view of the ocean for awhile because we are heading west in the morning.
Friday, August 30, 2013
Thursday, August 29, 2013
Gloucester
We are in Massachusetts in a place called Cape Ann.
We have been exploring the area and tomorrow we go on a cruise to see 6 more
lighthouses.
Today was cool and foggy so we drove around checking out some of the little villages in the area. They all have British names like Manchester, Essex , Rockport and Gloucester. The area is very old and the planning was done in the age of horse and carriage. The streets are very narrow and twisty and the houses are very close to the edge of the roads. They had not imagined King Cab Dodge Diesel trucks trying to maneuver down them.
As with the rest of the New England area there are many beautiful classic old homes.
We were shocked to learn that most of thee beaches must be driven to and there is a $20.00 charge to park your vehicle so you can walk to the shore. Believe me Ken is not impressed
In downtown Gloucester they have a beautiful memorial to all of the seamen lost in the area. There is a statue and there are plaques listing the names of over five thousand seamen who were lost in the area and the year that they perished.
Pointedly there is also a statue of a young widow with 2 small children looking out to sea, waiting for her husband to return. The display is beautiful. We spent some time there walking the beach and looking for sea glass.
We went to the cinema to see The Butler this afternoon and now we are relaxing for the evening.
Will report on the cruise tomorrow.
We have been exploring the area and tomorrow we go on a cruise to see 6 more
lighthouses.
Today was cool and foggy so we drove around checking out some of the little villages in the area. They all have British names like Manchester, Essex , Rockport and Gloucester. The area is very old and the planning was done in the age of horse and carriage. The streets are very narrow and twisty and the houses are very close to the edge of the roads. They had not imagined King Cab Dodge Diesel trucks trying to maneuver down them.
As with the rest of the New England area there are many beautiful classic old homes.
We were shocked to learn that most of thee beaches must be driven to and there is a $20.00 charge to park your vehicle so you can walk to the shore. Believe me Ken is not impressed
In downtown Gloucester they have a beautiful memorial to all of the seamen lost in the area. There is a statue and there are plaques listing the names of over five thousand seamen who were lost in the area and the year that they perished.
Pointedly there is also a statue of a young widow with 2 small children looking out to sea, waiting for her husband to return. The display is beautiful. We spent some time there walking the beach and looking for sea glass.
We went to the cinema to see The Butler this afternoon and now we are relaxing for the evening.
Will report on the cruise tomorrow.
Wednesday, August 28, 2013
Three Days Was A Good Idea
August 27,2013
Three days was a good idea.
When we signed into this campground at Patten Pond we
intended to stay 2 nights. But since it was a Passport America campground we
decided to stay for a third night. That turned out to be a very good idea.
The morning was spent relaxing and having a pancake
breakfast complete with a sounding smoke detector. That aside it was a very
nice morning.
I packed a picnic lunch and we headed out. Ken
researched and found out that there were two lighthouses quite close by. The first one we went to was the Fort Point Light
Station. I knew it was not opened to the public and I knew that the keepers
house was now a Coast Guard residence but that is all I knew.
Imagine my surprise when I discovered that the light
station was in a state park and that the park was a historical site. The fort was build because of the tensions
between the English and the French in 1759 and it played an integral part in
the revolutionary war in 1775. The light station was established in 1836 as an
aid to navigation for the ships travelling from Penobscot and Bangor and
Castine. There were boards telling of this history and we could see the remains
of fortress walls and moats.
The light is very well maintained and the grounds had
picnic tables where we could sit and enjoy the amazing views of the bay. I was
so pleased to find a passport station on the grounds. A passport station is a
place where there is a stamp and a stamp pad and you can stamp your own
lighthouse passport.
There was a bell tower just a short distance from the light. The bell and the mechanism used to ring the
bell were still there. There also was a diagram showing how the fog bell was
rung. This was the first time we had seen such a setup, the first one in 287
lighthouses.!! We took lots of pictures.
The park covers 120 acres and is on a long peninsula
with panoramic views of Penobscot Bay so we had our picnic here at one of the
many wonderful picnic spots. Next we spent about an hour enjoying the ocean and
looking for treasures along the beach. It was a surreal afternoon.
The day was very hot so we traveled in air
conditioning to the next lighthouse, the Dice Head Light.
We knew that the
keepers house here was a private residence and we had no idea how close we
would be able to get and we knew nothing about Castine where it is located.
Getting there took us through beautiful Maine country
side and again we were so impressed with the architecture of the area. Many
different styles are represented even the older style of building the home and
the barn all in one structure. We saw many mansions belonging to the one
percent.
The lighthouse was in good condition and we took
several pictures but respected the privacy of the owners and did not trespass.
There was not a passport station here however.
On the way to
the light house we saw several large building that appeared to be part of a
university campus. So of course we had to investigate. We discovered that this
is the home of the Maine Naval Academy. There were numerous residences and
university buildings, a students center,
and all of the other things you would expect to see on a large
university campus and yet here it was out in the middle of the small village of
Castine.
“One of America’s most historic small towns Castine
traces its beginnings to a French fur trading station established in 1814.
Seafaring nations long coveted the rocky heights above
Dice Head, which dominates the entrance to Penobscot River. Over the years the
flags of four nations fluttered above forts here and several battles were
fought for possession of the town.”
We drove to the dock and here was “ The State of
Maine” a training vessel, and many small boats. In the town we saw many GI Joe
types and there were several boards commemorating some of the battles that were
fought here.
We were in awe of all that we saw and were so surprised that we
had not known about it previously.
By then evening was fast approaching so we returned to
the campground feeling so glad that we had stayed in Maine for another day.
Three days really was a great idea.
Oh No Not Rain!
Monday August 26
Oh no, Not Rain!
This morning I awoke to the sound of rain. It was a
light rain but it was rain and we didn’t want rain today. We have booked a
cruise to see lighthouses. But this was 6:30 and the cruise was supposed to
begin at 9:30.
We had breakfast; gathered together warm clothes and
cameras and away we went. We planned to arrive early because we had seen how
scarce parking was yesterday. It was a smart move. Many vehicles were there
already but we did get parking and just as we got into Bar Harbor the rain
stopped. Keeping fingers crossed can work sometimes.
Soon it was time to board The Bay King III.The Bay
King is a 90 foot with 2800 horsepower jet powered catamaran and she cruises
at 24 knots.
The group was small but all were lighthouse enthusiasts.
When we booked we were told we would either be taking the Great Duck Island
Loop or the Inshore Route depending on the wind and the weather. I would find
out that we were doing the inshore route. I was happy later because the anti
nausea medicine had to come to my rescue around eleven.
The tour began at 9:30 and ended at 12:15 or so. We
had a wonderful narrator on board and he pointed out so many things as we
travelled. He explained about the geology of Acadia National Park, and how so
many features are because of an ice age and the movement of glaciers.
He told us that if you were to stretch out all of the
shoreline of the many islands and the mainland of the State of Maine you would have enough shoreline to
take you all of the way to the Pacific Ocean and almost all of the way back .
He informed us of the importance of the lobster
industry in what he jokingly referred to as Lobster Fishing 101. Today we can
buy a whole lobster for under 6 dollars here in Bar harbor.
He pointed out the many mansions along the bay. These
homes cost millions of dollars and are used only a month or two each year. He
pointed out Anchorage owned by the Fords; the Breakwater Estate owned by
Pulitzer; Skylands owned by Martha
Stewart; as well as properties owned by the Rockefellers and the Carnegies.
Such opulence in one place!
But for Ken and I the best part was the close up views
of Egg Rock Lighthouse; Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse; Bear Island Lighthouse;
Winter Harbor Lighthouse and Baker Island Lighthouse. Our guide told us the
history of these lights and the captain of the ship made certain the spin
around so we could get a grand view of each and every light. We are now at 287
lighthouses visited and photographed.
Before we knew it the ship was headed back into shore
and we had to disembark. But before we left the ship I was given 5 stamps for
my lighthouse passport.
We had lunch and stomped around many of the little
shops in the area. We got another magnet and a Xmas ornament to add to our
collection. The bonus was finding the Lang lighthouse calendar for 2014. It
fits our calendar and it is often very hard to find.
Then we headed back to the campground. On the way we stopped at a couple of antique
shops; a roadside blueberry stand, a spot that sold firewood and last but not
least we got groceries.
Another grand day and another great adventure comes to
an end,
Oxygen??
Sunday August 25th
Oxygen??
I have a theory! I think oxygen is a tranquilizer.
Why do I think that? Well it seems to me that every
time I am in a rural area with lots of trees and water and therefore lots of
oxygen I am calm and contented. I wonder if research has been done on the
number of people living in the country taking tranquilizers; compared to the number of people in the city
taking them. This thought occured to me this afternoon.
We had a grand day. We drove from Hilltop Campground
to Patten Pond Campground in Ellsworth Maine. It is a very nice park and then
we got unhooked and settled, had lunch and headed for Bar Harbor.
I had never been to Bar Harbor and I did not know what
a tourist place it was. There were 2 cruise ships in the harbor and the streets
were full of tourists. It reminded me of the Alaskan communities and how
crowded they are when cruise ships are in. But the vehicles on the street were
from all over North America. We checked on our lighthouse cruise for tomorrow
and then we got out of town.
This area of Maine is so very beautiful; almost every
side road leads to another port. These small harbors today were dotted with
ships of all sizes. The smallest skiff and the most expensive yacht sat side by
side, bobbing in the gentle breeze, enjoying this wonderful day that Mother
Nature has provided.
We stopped at one beach and we got out of the truck.
The little harbor has many vessels and there are people playing in the water
and the sand. We strolled along searching for treasures. Our treasure is sea
glass. Ken and I stroll in the soft air enjoying the gentle breeze and
breathing deeply so can capture all of the sea air possible. Between the both
of us we probable found 50 pieces, most were very small but treasures none the
less.
After the stop at the beach Ken explored more of the
country roads. The houses are beautiful and so varied. There is nothing ticky
tacky about these communities. Some homes are huge classic structures from more
than a hundred years ago, with gingerbread and turrets and widow walks. Others
are new and modern with lots of glass. There is everything in between.
There are many Inns and B&B’s and small eating
places, antique shops and so much more. I can’t wait to explore even more of
this area tomorrow.
This evening we are both feeling rested and contented.
I wonder if it
is the oxygen.
Saturday, August 24, 2013
An Awesome Day
Today was totally awesome.
It was beautiful with not a cloud in the sky and the
air was so clear that it almost sparkled.
After breakfast we packed a lunch and headed for New
Brunswick, yes New Brunswick. We wanted to visit the lights on Campobello Island and it is in New Brunswick, Canada.
So passports in hand, away we went. Crossing
the border was not a problem and the first stop was at the Mulholland
lighthouse which is just on the other side of the bridge to Campobello. The
light stands in Roosevelt park and it is freshly painted and in great
condition. We took lots of pictures and Ken looked for sea glass. We had the
little park almost to ourselves. It was so peaceful and the view across the
Lubec channel was wonderful.
This was about noon and we were tempted to eat our
lunch there but we decided to continue on to the East Quoddy light.
There were other cars there and of course the tide was
not low so we could not get out to the light. But we had good views of it
anyway. The clear air was amazing and we could see for miles around.
We had our
lunch at one of the picnic tables and enjoyed the spectacular views. We drove
around the island, visiting several small fishing ports.
Around three thirty we crossed the bridge back into
Maine. Again the border crossing was trouble free. We stopped in Lubec this
time and the experience was memorable indeed.
The tide had turned and you could see the rip tides so
clearly.
The water boiled and the seals and the gulls were fishing
successfully. Soon a pair of bald eagles appeared and after surveying the
situation for awhile they began to fish also.We watched this from the patio of Frank’s restaurant on Main street. Ken had chowder and I had a cold drink. We were enthralled by the display in front of us. The water in the channel bubbled and boiled and the action of the water seemed to be bringing the fish to the surface, much to the delight of the feeding wildlife and the people watching. The air was so clear and Campobello shone in the afternoon sun.
Next stop West Quoddy.
I know I have been there before but that was many
years ago and I did not have a lighthouse passport at that time.
We drove there, took some pictures, I got my stamps and
we then headed back to the campground.
The drive was wonderful, what an amazing day this had
been.
Adventure at Sea!
The Ada C.Lore is a 118 foot Chesapeake Bay Oyster
Schooner. She was originally built in 1923 in Dorchester, New Jersey and her
purpose was to dredge for oysters under sail on the Delaware River. She has
been completely restored to her former glory. These boats were very
maneuverable and because of their shallow draft they were very well adapted to
work the waters and inlets of the Maryland coast. The Ada C. Lore is one of
only three remaining historic Chesapeake Bay oyster schooners in the United
States.
Like many of the fishing vessels of today she is now
engaged in tourism. You can charter her for a private function or you can take
a romantic sunset cruise or you can go whale watching which is what we did.
We have been whale watching before but this trip would
take us past the East Quoddy Lighthouse and at least 2 other small lights and
that was motivation enough to sign up.
The cruise left Eastport Pier at 1:30 and the day was
bright and sunny. It was warm on the land but because we knew it would be
different on the water we took fleeces and windbreakers with us. It was a wise
move.
As we pull away the sailors begin to raise the main
sail and we are offered the chance to take part. I jump at their offer and soon
I am pulling on the rope as hard as I can. I last until the sail is about ¾ of
the way to the top of the mast, then someone else jumps in and I sit and pant
for the next few minutes. This was so much fun and was a new experience for me.
This area of the coast is dotted with many small
islands and almost immediately we are in Canadian waters. The first lighthouse
we see is the small marker on Cherry Island. It is a while column and is on the
end of this small island.
At first it appears as if the whales have decided to
hide but soon we see a Minke whale. It swims around near the boat to the
delight of all.
Soon the Deer Island light comes into view. It is also
a small white column but we are able to get some good pictures. Deer Island has
a full time population of about 800 people, most of whom work in the fishing
industry. This island and Cherry Island and Campobello are all part of New
Brunswick.
Soon we are treated to another whale appearance as well
as porpoise and seals and many seabirds. The sun is shining, the sea is calm
and the day is glorious. My anti-nausea medicine stays in my purse.
Now comes our main reason for taking this cruise; the
East Quoddy Lighthouse. We sail through Head Harbour Passage and as we round
the point the lighthouse comes into view. She is beautiful!!
The paint is fresh and bright and she is beautiful.
There are several out buildings. Because it is late afternoon the light is
perfect. As we get closer our cameras get into full gear and we are busy
snapping photo after photo. Each view seems to be better than the previous one.
Between the two of us I am sure we took over 80 pictures. We see the bridge and
the ladders that we would have to use to get this close if we had gone by land
instead of sea. This light is accessible only at low tide and this week the
timing is not right so this cruise was a second choice. In fact it turned out
to be the best choice, we could never have gotten these photos from the land.
As we sail away our cameras are still clicking.
On our return one of the seamen explained the
phenomenon of Old Sow, the largest whirlpool in the Western Hemisphere. It is
truly amazing to see the waters go from perfectly flat to boiling violently.
This effect is created by currents from opposite directions meeting and coming up to the surface. The effect is like a pot of boiling water. We saw several vortexes of different sizes. We were told the powered vessels need not be concerned but man powered vessels may not be able to escape the effect. Here is what research had to say.
“Tremendous
water turbulence occurs locally in the greater Old Sow area, but it does not
usually constitute a navigation hazard for motorized vessels with experienced
operators at the helm; however, small craft — especially vessels with keels
(sailboats) and human-powered vessels — are warned to avoid these waters when
the tide is running.”
Soon the pier came into sight and our adventure on the
Ada C. Lore had come to an end.
Next Stop Fundy!
We left Nova Scotia and headed for Fundy National Park in New Brunswick.
This is a very special area and no matter how many times I go there I am spellbound by its wonder.ONE HUNDRED BILLION TONS of water rushes in and out of the bay twice a day, every day. This is more than the total amount of water flowing into the oceans of the world from all of the rivers combined.
To see a ship sitting high and dry on mud with water nowhere to be found continues to amaze me. I have seen the waters of the bay rush in and then back out many many times but Oh My, it is still hard to believe.
This is a very special area and no matter how many times I go there I am spellbound by its wonder.ONE HUNDRED BILLION TONS of water rushes in and out of the bay twice a day, every day. This is more than the total amount of water flowing into the oceans of the world from all of the rivers combined.
To see a ship sitting high and dry on mud with water nowhere to be found continues to amaze me. I have seen the waters of the bay rush in and then back out many many times but Oh My, it is still hard to believe.
The main reason for the stop in Fundy was to visit Cape Enrage lighthouse. It is a nice one which stands high on a cliff. Unfortunately it is being turned into a bit of a tourist trap with rappelling and zip lining etc. But we did enjoy seeing it.
While travelling and seeing the area we discovered another cute lighthouse. It was in a very nice park and as part of their display they showed how the big sailing ships were built. The park was called Shipyard Park and the lighthouse was named Anderson Hollow Lighthouse.
On the Road Again
We left Truro on Sunday morning. Several people told
us to make certain to stop at the Masstown market so that is where we headed.
They have a lighthouse there. Actually it is a café and not a lighthouse but it
is fun.
We could not believe how crowded it was, parking was at a premium. We
did find a place to park and we soon learned why it was and is so popular. It
is like a giant super market and Farmers market all rolled into one.
I could not believe my eyes when I discovered that they
had WILD Nova Scotia blueberries for sale. What memories they brought back!! They are so incredibly tasty, much nicer that the cultivated highbush berries.Of course I had to buy a quart.They would be part of breakfast for the next
several days.
Next we headed for Nappan and the farm of friends;
Diane and Victor Bacon.
We spent the next three days there being treated like
royalty and remembering happy times. We even learned a new card game.
On Wednesday morning we headed for Fundy National Park