St.John's

September 19

Today we were in St John’s Newfoundland. We had a Princess tour scheduled and I was concerned about my ankle and about the weather. I sort of expected that it might be raining and cold but it was neither. The air was warm and the sun shone for part of the morning.

It was dark when our day began. We had a wake up call set for 6:30 and it was still dark when the phone rang. For awhile we wondered if we had done something wrong but we had not. When we turned on the tv and went to the web cam we could see that the ship was headed for the narrows leading into St John’s harbor. Ken hurried and got dressed so he could go topside and watch the ship sail in. I tried doctoring my foot. It seemed a bit more swollen that usual and for awhile I doubted that I would be able to wear my shoe. But I was able to get it on and all seemed well. There was a hold up with disembarkation because someone  had not the proper visa. Anyway it was late but we dis disembark the ship around 8:45 and we headed for our waiting buses. They were a bit of a walk away but I managed. There were others with mobility problems so I did not have a front seat. But I was not too far back and soon we were underway.

Our guide Ches  gave a running commentary as we headed for Signal Hill which was our first scheduled stop. St John was supposedly discovered by John Cabot in 1497. Many Europeans followed and by 1583, St.John’s was a flourishing and prosperous seaside village. Tucked inside a natural harbor St.John’s is located on the eastern tip of the Avalon Peninsula on the Island of Newfoundland.

This is the sixth largest island in the world and it is a little smaller than California, slightly bigger than Japan and twice the size of the entire United Kingdom.

St.John’s is a charming waterfront town  which holds many amazements. Streets as steep as San Francisco, quaint fishing villages untouched by time, expansive landscapes, and thriving seabird colonies are just a few of the many surprises awaiting you in St.John’s. Just a short distance from the harbour we found narrow criss-crossing streets lined with colorful 100 year old houses. Our ship towered over the downtown because they have rules governing how high you can build in the old town section of the city.

 Soon we were climbing the hills outside the city on our way to Cape Spear, one of the most scenic spots in Newfoundland. We went here first because we wanted to avoid the crowds. This had its advantages and its disadvantages.

 Yes we were ahead of the crowds but we were also ahead of the opening of the museum or the lighthouse or the souvenir shops. But the view was amazing. There are actually 2 lights here. One is the old original light which is the oldest surviving lighthouse in North America. A Canadian National Historic site this scenic landmark has been restored to its former 1836 glory. It is now a museum with many artifacts of its glorious history but it was not opened so bus passengers could not venture inside.There is a path with 100 steps leading to its rocky promontory point where you can see the Atlantic crashing against the winding coastline. Ken went up to the top but I passed knowing that my knee and ankle would not take kindly to that venture.

Also in this location stands the current working lighthouse. It is a structure very much like the lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove. I roamed around at the bottom and took pictures of the lights and the amazing coast line. Soon it was time to get back on the bus. We were told to be onb board by 9:45 and at ten the bus had still not moved. Our guide was operating on NFLD time and he had told us to board according to ships time. Newfoundland  has a time zone which differs by a half hour. But finally we were underway and our next stop was to be Signal Hill.

This Canadian National Historic Site is where the first transatlantic wireless transmission was received in 1901. This is also the site of Cabot Tower. This was erected to commemorate the landing of Cabot and to celebrate the golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. The view from here is truly amazing and thrilling at the same time.

This tower looks like an old castle. It is a stone tower which dominates the landscape and impresses everyone who sees it.

Our next stop was to visit the grounds of government house. This is a lovely garden and the home of the Governor General who is the Queen’s representative in the province. The grounds have many wonderful trees that were planted by the likes of Princess Diana, Churchill, Prince Charles and Queen Elizabeth.

Our final stop was one to visit the Basilica of St. John the Baptist. This magnificent cathedral was consecrated on September 9^th, 1855.

 The building measures 246 feet lond,180 feet across the transept, is 55 feet  high inside  with a seating capacity of 2000. Together its twin towers 150 feet high, holds a town clock and nine Irish bells. This is one of the earliest North American examples of nineteenth century revival of classical architecture. Here we viewed sixty six stained glass windows by Irish, French, and English artists which illuminated the basilica. These were the most magnificent we had seen anywhere, they could stand alongside   all of the windows in St. Paul’s or Westminster or Winchester. They are so unbelievably fine in their detail and warmth .

The Basilica’s ornate ceiling was designed and executed by Newfoundland artists in 1903 and was polychromed and highlighted in gold leaf in 1955. In honor of the 100^th anniversary a grand organ was also installed. Comprised of a 51 stop grand organ in the organ loft and a 15 stop sanctuary organ, it has 66 stops and 4050 pipes and is the largest instrument in Newfoundland. We took pictures of the organ but we would have loved to hear it being played.

We passed the Anglican cathedral but there was no time left to visit it. Such a pity!!

We returned to the ship for lunch then Ken went ashore again to get me some liniment and a tensor bandage for my ankle. I am happy to report that the ankle feels much better this evening. I may have turned the corner but since it will be a week tomorrow since I hurt myself it is about time.